Our first morning stop was the great sitting Buddha. Stunning and 52 metres high.with over 100,000 identical but smaller Buddhas inside. We spent much time inside, and were treated with much chanting by seniors monks and monks in training, boys and girls I was pleased to notice. The inside was filled with over 100,000 miniature Buddhas identical to the main one, flowers, offerings and many people. No photography allowed, and for once I complied. Many steps leading up and down and a fabulous view of Thimphu from the top.
A lovely elephant welcomed us to Thimphu for our first night and staying at Hotel Nordenma. It seemed central but was a 15 or so minute drive tithe centre. After dropping us at our hotel, Sanjiv and I elected to be taken to the city. We walked around enjoying the sights…. and had our first Bhutanese momos. Walked a lot and enjoyed more wonderful, adorned shops and buildings. Got a taxi home an hour or so later.
Renu relaxing in the lounge and a sign that made me laugh as there was no wine in sight.
The hotel room was great, huge and very very warm. Dinner in the hotel and my second thumpka, which was nowhere near as good as my earlier one.
At the end of dinner, we were asked what we’d like for breakfast. We said toast, eggs, chai and Sanjiv asked for sausages. I seem to remember the response to sausages was ‘not possible sir’ despite a few ‘I’ll check with the chef’.
As we were leaving, we were told there was no bread, clearly negating the possibility of toast. We were told we could have pancakes which I thought was fine.
A warm nights sleep then we arrive at breakfast and are greeted by our pancakes. Not happy campers – except for me. Sanjiv had a kindly word to the waitress about the lacking other items and the constant reply was still ‘not possible sir’.
I can’t fully account for what happened next, but somehow some sad half omelettes that looked like they were cooked last week, arrived at our table. I declined, being somewhat happy with pancakes. I don’t think the omelettes were great. I finished breakfast and went for a walk. When I returned a short while later, Sanjiv was eating sausages! Apparently a chat with the chef, who seemed to dispute the waitresses account of what was available in the kitchen. Sanjiv was more pleased about a ‘positive’ (.) outcome rather than the quality of the food. I just thought it was the funniest breakfast ever.
Our misty time I’m Bhutan continued, with our first stop being a Buddhist Stupor. Our guide very proudly and comprehensively spoke to us about this grand monument, also shrouded in mist.
Our lunch stop was The Divine Middway cafe, delivererer of my first and best Bhutan meal, Thupka, a spiced veg and noodle soup. Thupka has too many letters, the P and K being silent.
And as ever, highly amused by some signs along the way.
Phuentsholing is our entry point to Bhutan, down the long corridor.
We are honoured with the customary white scarf by our guide Tshewang (pronounced Twong) aka Captain happy and our driver Tashi, aka expert driver. They subsequently live up to their names.
I can’t pronounce Phuentsholing so I call it Flingshilling and shortly we are all calling it that.
First impression – Wow we are in Bhutan – then, yes it does look different – then OMG it is so quiet.
New definition of ‘profound’ – the difference between India and Bhutan – in soooo many ways.
The buildings all seem elaborate, painted, carved and decorated and ….loved! The streets are clean and tidy, cars drive slowly and they don’t blow their horns! People smile and everyone was happy for me to photograph them.
Yes – Bhutan is different to India. I think India will always hold a special place in my (reincarnated?) heart, but for the next few days I am happy to fully immerse in Bhutan.
Our drive to Thimphu takes a few hours.We drive through heavy mist with just a hint of I’m sure would be dramatic scenery. I hope it lifts, but it is winter time and it does get misty.
Leaving the tea plantation, we head for Jiagon, which is the border town in India to enter Bhutan by road. Jiagon is a typical Indian town specialising in homewares and electrical shops. Not much high fashion here. A last chance to get a haul of cash as credit cards not accepted widely in Bhutan.
Jiagon is also home to the immigration departure office where it had to be proven that I had departed India before I could be allowed into Bhutan. I did say to Sanjiv ‘doesn’t that happens simultaneously’, but apparently Indian bureaucracy prefers the system where we have to visit the office in the morning that I’m leaving and speak at length to one person who stamps my passport and looks at my Visa then 20 m later somebody else has to check it and then I am officially in no man’s land for an hour or so, I did think of committing some crimes, with no country to imprison me, but we were in a bit of a hurry.
Leaving India we enter Bhutan arrivals department – similar but slightly cheerier treatment.
Finally, walking down the long corridor towards Bhutan past happy leaping Bhutanese, I wonder if it will really feel that different from India.
While in Darjeeling, we went to a lunch spot for the much sought alter mo mo, called Tibet Kitchen. Sadly in,y friend meat mo mos which wasn’t going to work in my world. An hour later and on deaths doorstep from starvation, I had my first had a thukpa, spiced veg soup which hit the spot.
3 hour road trip to Darjeeling, stopping on the way for ‘tea’ which turned out to be the funniest tea party ever, with so many different teas and strict instructions from staff as to when to pour. We were totally confused.
Darjeeling was delightful, albeit brief. Fresh and crisp abounding with tea shops, markets of course, the occasional grand building and friendly staff.
redsaree 